从庐山到黄山。
上庐山的那段盘山路，真的，好恐怖呀~
一个接一个的急弯，再加上不时袭来的雾气，能见度最低的时候仅及五米。
到庐山风景区门口的时候，除了赶快买票进去找地方住，早就把之前查来的逃票攻略忘得一干二净了~
牯岭，名字来自cooling，传教士李德立的命名。转了这么久的山路，陡然看到一个有银行有商店有旅馆有饭店的小镇，十分亲切。
这现代文明啊……
想想，1858年，第二次鸦片战争后，签订《天津条约》，九江成为通商口岸。
牯岭街上仍然是细密的雾，不一会儿睫毛就全湿了。不过下午三点，便有了暮色的感觉。
信步往山上别墅区走走，包括最著名的美庐，似乎也没有想象中那么的好看。
1937年，卢沟桥事变后10天，蒋介石在庐山发表抗战声明，屡次言及“牺牲”，最著名的那句“地无分南北，年无分老幼，无论何人，皆有守土抗战之责任，皆应抱定牺牲一切之决心”，便是从此发出。
1959年的两次庐山会议，已经有了《庐山会议实录》，其他还有些什么，不知道。
庐山的含义，好像太丰富了一点。
最后走到芦林湖，拾到一个花环。
到庐山总是要看《庐山恋》的，可是，作为一个阶级分析法的爱好者，我看到的只是，美丽多金的爱国华侨和英俊博学的高干子弟在试图教会改革开放初期的国人什么叫浪漫~
第二天，早起，买了65元的24小时观光车票，准备去三叠泉和五老峰。
到三叠泉下车以后，开始是一片茶园，然后开始不断的听到水声，追随着这水声爬上爬下，便看到了著名的三叠泉。
据说三叠泉是被樵夫发现的。那跌宕落下的瀑布确实是美景，瀑布下面的那一汪绿水更是令人心怡；但说到三叠泉，我印象更深的还是那不知多少级的台阶。
从三叠泉出来，吃了栗子粉，买了云雾茶，开始准备上五老峰。
五老峰，紫龙，春丽……居然没有什么游人的样子。只有不知哪里跑来的一条小狗，一直摇着尾巴很高兴的跟着我们。
也许是因为这条可爱的小狗，也许是因为有了在三叠泉的锻炼，爬五老峰似乎也并不是那么的费劲。
可惜因为云雾太密，爬上山顶望下去，也不过白茫茫一片真干净。
耐心的等一会儿，又能看到云雾被风吹散的样子，突然发现，原来对面还有一座山……
到底在什么地方可以看到“五老”呢？据说，那要到山脚下了……
另外，回来以后看到学校在办“傅增湘先生逝世六十周年紀念展”，想起了，似乎是在爬五老峰的时候看到了傅增湘的题字。
傍晚赶到含鄱口，据说天气晴朗的时候是可以看到鄱阳湖的，于是我们认真的看了一番，啥也没看到~
第三天，继续早起，赶着那65元的最后一个小时，坐车到了三宝树，立志走完西边直到仙人洞这大大的一圈。
从这时候起，且让我们来说说主席的那把椅子……
主席是要登山的，主席是要拍照的，主席拍照的时候是要坐在椅子上的。
后人们也要登山，后人们也要拍照，后人们也要坐在主席坐过的椅子上拍照。
于是，从三叠泉，我们便可以看到这把“主席的椅子”，放在最佳取景位置。而在乌龙潭，如果你想拍一张有小瀑布而没有主席椅子的照片，你需要在100米外涉水到小溪的另外一边。
好吧……
回来整理照片，发现其实庐山真的很美，可是，该说些什么才好？
下山，去星子县看白鹿洞书院。不管怎么样白鹿洞书院总是要去看的，哪怕书院的门口有着“进白鹿洞书院，上清华北大”这样雷人的标语……
牯岭是一个旅游小镇，居民实际上很多湖南湖北人，到星子县才吃到江西美食。住的宾馆楼下有家小吃店，里面的炒粉和瓦罐汤都十分好吃，吃完后计划再找点主食，又在一家不起眼的小饭馆吃到了我有生以来吃过的最好吃的茄子肉末~~ 唔，很难想象如此家常的一道菜也可以做得这么好吃~ 撑到需要散步来消食，而这两家吃下来才不过花了26元。
顺便说一句，庐山的特产茶饼也很好吃，浓香而不甜腻~
星子县据说是有周瑜点将台和周敦颐爱莲池的，也就基本上供人想往，匆匆看过一番，我们便奔向婺源了。
在景婺黄高速路上，一到婺源，景色便有所不同了，令人精神为之一振。快四点的时候到清华镇，36度的高温，仍然忍不住出门去找
彩虹桥。
蓝天，白云，小河，农田。有孩子在水中嬉戏。
彩虹桥，类似《廊桥遗梦》的那种廊桥，名字出自“两水夹明镜，双桥落彩虹”。
到农田里去认识植物，在田埂上慌张的避让耕牛，走在路上看炊烟，晚霞，和圆月。“想象”中的乡村，就是如此美好~
被美景鼓舞，次日，六点起床，拍照去~
看了两个村落，又去灵岩洞，百柱宗祠。后者位于黄村，就建筑而言十分可观，据说有99根木柱建成，俨然深藏于民间的宫殿。
下午最热的时候赶到了大鄣山卧龙谷。溪水清澈，忍不住脱下鞋袜到水中凉快，然后到水潭旁边找块大石头躺下睡午觉。中午时分没有游人，这份清闲真是难得。
傍晚回清华镇，看到路旁有个“浮溪村”，又忍不住进村看看。不知何时建成的老屋，被父母责骂而哭泣的小孩。热闹，而宁静。
一直以为婺源这边之所以是徽式建筑，是因为邻近安徽省，后来才知道婺源是一直到1934年的时候，因为剿匪的需要而被划归江西省，虽然婺源人强烈反弹，甚至在1946年还搞起了“返皖运动”，并由胡适提交了请愿书给蒋介石，终于在1947年回到安徽省。但1949年以后，婺源再次被强制划入江西省至今。据说，有些上年纪的老人自我认同仍是徽州人。
婺源本身是理学名地，又是徽商聚居的地方，每个村子都十分了得。看看“严田”、“晓起”这些名字，便是不同凡响。
在思溪某个老屋，我们便看到堂上挂着郭沫若、蒋介石等人的字。另外一家则骄傲的写明了这家人一共出了多少个博士多少个教授。我们到这个高级知识分子之家的时候一位老人正在吃饭，在得知我们是从北京来的之后，说，这里有什么好看的呀，我上个月才去了北京，那才是天堂呢。摩登呀~
在延村，则有幸被一位金爷爷带到了家里，给我们讲解了木雕上的各种图案的含义，一直参观到了当年小姐的闺房。
不恭敬的说一句，这位金爷爷想必当年也是贾宝玉一般的人物，看和他合影过的游客，清一色的年轻女孩子。现在却孤身一人，住在当年曾经香艳绮丽过的闺房，甚至还因为一个人无法看管而导致床上的雕木板被盗。
想想，执子之手，恐怕还是要落实在与子偕老吧。
因为昨天在卧龙谷的愉快印象，中午奔往文公山，准备在山上树荫中找个地方睡午觉~
去了才知道，文公山上有朱子回乡扫墓是手植的杉树，据说共24棵，寓意二十四孝，棵棵位置都是有讲究的，暗藏玄机。
如同不小心中闯进了局，自上山起我们便被一团一团不知名的小飞虫包围，根本不敢停步，遑论午睡~
最后，我们顶着烈日奔到了山下的紫阳书院，趴在课桌上（真的有讲台和课桌的）睡了一觉。
傍晚去李坑。
在望景楼上吃农家南瓜，在査记酒家去买了浓香的状元红，沿着溪水走到村头去看星星。
等到汪口的时候，基本上，我们对徽式建筑已经有些审美疲劳了，虽然汪口村的俞氏宗祠被成为“木雕宝库”。
但这水这挂着红灯笼的船，却让人顿生清凉啊~
顺便说一句，婺源的很多景点都是用180元的联票。这些景点有安排好的路线，进村一条路，出村则大多是去爬村旁边的小山，很不错。
走马观花的看过核心故里江湾，又奔去了江岭。江岭已经是婺源比较偏僻的景点，又不是油菜花开的季节，十分冷清。景点的人挥手让我们直接开车上去，一路一个车都没有看到~
又是盘山路，而且是很窄的盘山路。一路上看到的都是梯田，风景十分的好。
我们住在了看到的第一户农家客栈。晚上吃到了地道的蒸菜。味道有点奇怪，似乎加入了某种特别的香料。
户主是个退伍军人，说他退伍的时候很多战友都劝他在城里买房子，他说，还是觉得乡下舒服。
黄山。
因为对徽派建筑实在疲劳，休宁、黟县、歙县、绩溪等等地方都全部放弃，直接奔向汤口，准备上黄山。
顺便说一句，这种为了旅游而存在的小镇，都有各种各样的磨人精。牯岭的当地导游可以跟着游人走上个五分钟来游说，汤口卖茶的可以推销到你找到饭馆坐下来准备点菜~
黄山上山直到白鹅岭的那一段，是最长最无趣的。但埋头爬下来，居然也就走完了7.5公里。
山上仍然是云雾弥漫，但黄山的雾又和庐山不同。庐山的雾薄一些，呈现淡淡的蓝色，风一吹就散了；黄山的雾要厚密一些，有点灰暗的色调。
著名的黄山松，真是特立独生。岩石间一点缝隙都可以长出来，姿态各异。
下午到排云亭等着看晚霞。多云的天气看不到晚霞，只看到了云海。
“不管是谁，拿天气也是没有办法的呀！”
第二天开始走号称梦幻景区的西海。
一路都是在峡谷中盘山上下，落差大到看的让人脚发软。
但实际上走起来还好，峡谷中风光秀美，游人也不多。一路走来，前前后后总是那么几对人，看着也觉得亲切。
走完西海大峡谷的环形路线，到达著名的光明顶。
光明顶一带是高山草甸景观，有很多小野花~
最后一天，继续在光明顶看日出。仍然是很多的人挤着。天空暗蓝，欲出的红霞满天；等太阳出来了，在云雾中反而显得黯淡，与夕阳无异。
除了标志性景观迎客松，最后一天剩下的便是天都峰。
迎客松被钢管保持着适当的角度，游客们排队和它合影。
不拍也罢。
据说天都峰是黄山最险的峰。一路走过去，看着陡峭的山壁和蚂蚁般渺小的爬山人，心里很有点打鼓。
上山的时候还好，走上一段歇一下，心里唯一想的就是，呃，这么陡，下山的时候怎么办呢？
下山的时候，真的，很难说服自己的脚向着那几成九十度的石梯迈出第一步。
尤其有的人无视已经表明的上下行分流路线。在我们下山到某个石洞中的时候，一队人从下行路线刚好上了一半，进退两难，只好费劲的从我们身边挤过去。
路又湿又窄，我当时真的很有一脚踢一个人下去的冲动~ 如果我敢单脚站立的话~
呃，一位胖哥哥从我身边挤过去的时候，我听到他背包旁边的农夫山泉痛苦的发出了被挤扁的声音……
小时候喜欢读琼瑶阿姨的爱情小说。记得有一篇《幸运草》，讲爬山的男女们的那些事儿，最后一句是：
“山被远远的抛在了后面。”
好像有点失落的样子……
可我兴高采烈的坐在下山的车上。山下有饭菜，果汁，大床，以及我们从婺源带过来的状元红~
终究是个俗人呀！
November 3rd, 2009 at 9:07 am
真惬意啊！
November 3rd, 2009 at 5:24 pm
神仙之旅啊！－－yuge
November 3rd, 2009 at 9:16 pm
大家俨然审美疲劳了嘛~~
我赶快把最后一段写完吧~~
November 3rd, 2009 at 11:41 pm
不是审美疲劳，而是不习惯这儿的版面形式。－－yuge
November 4th, 2009 at 12:28 pm
这儿的版面格式……不是就是没有什么格式么？
你指的是回复不方便么？还是啥？具体点~
November 5th, 2009 at 4:34 pm
哈哈，终于明白了，想必都是IE6惹的祸，
鱼哥哥都懂得翻墙了，还不赶快用IE7？
November 18th, 2009 at 2:38 pm
关于执子之手，贴一个科普贴：
http://www.douban.com/note/50662204/
想必是老爷爷当年执过的手太多，所以一语成谶的概率也大了很多……
可不慎乎！
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