似曾相似燕归来:想象,及其后果。

绍兴。有点陈旧的街道。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0112_1

住在鲁迅故居的后街。这传说中的水乡。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0119_1

然而……
当绍兴成为了一个被霉干菜,臭豆腐和鲁迅包围着的城市的时候,我突然不知道我为什么曾经那么向往它了。
当鲁迅刻下来的“早”字被拓下来放大了装进相框,当鲁镇被以鲁迅的描述建设起来的时候,当每一个小摊上都有孔乙己的茴香豆,闰土的毡帽和卡通版阿Q的时候,……我突然很想离开了。

傍晚时分来到西塘。另一个水乡。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0123_1

当我看到第一个卖着漂亮小本本和色彩鲜艳的长裙的小店的时候,我高兴;当我看到第二个第三个……的时候,我……不知道……
nEO_IMG_DSCF0223_1一群不那么靠谱的孩子来到一个想象中的美好的小镇,开始卖那些充满奇思妙想的小玩意儿;另一群不靠谱的孩子来到另一个想象中的美好的小镇,开始卖那些充满奇思妙想的小玩意儿;再一群不靠谱的孩子来到第三个想象中的美好的小镇……
谁能告诉我,这里不是烟袋斜街?或者别的任何地方?
ALL ANTI-KAOPUTISTS,UNITED!

我常常看着那些亲密谈话的孩子,我不明白为什么他们不愿意和自己的同学交谈,不愿意和自己的父母交谈,却愿意和陌生人交谈。就是因为他留着鸡冠头么?就是因为他打了唇环么?就是因为他留了长发而她留的是板寸么?就是因为当时的音响放的是CREEP么?
为什么要相信一个集体而不相信另一个集体?
为什么愿意成为一种人而不愿意成为另一种人?

我第一次到周庄的时候,说,我想在周庄开个小店买蓝印花布。现在,我突然有点不知道该说什么。
或者我只是嫉妒。
唔。

终于来到了传说中的杭州。而我在攻略上看中的第一个地方,叫云栖竹径。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0244_1

阴沉的天。一叶知秋。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0256_1

第二天去西湖,天依然阴沉,且多风,于是便出现了“黄浦江一样的西湖”。

所谓西湖十景,本来就是有时限的。断桥残雪,自然要在深冬;平湖秋月,最好便是中秋。这种阴沉多风的残夏,真是什么也看不到。勉强算是一景的曲院风荷,也只是些茂密却已有颓势的荷叶,聊作一观。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0293_1

横沟正史在《狱门岛》中设计了一个俳剧杀人的场景,要求凶手以“黄莺倒吊啼初音”来布置现场。但凶手作案时却是深秋,只能感叹了一句:
“不管是谁,都对季节不对无可奈何啊。”

喏,这就是为什么思葳同学被平湖秋月之浪漫感动到几乎涕下,我却觉得索然无味。幸亏还有孤山,西泠、俞楼让人赞叹不已;可惜从楼外楼饕餮之后,竟然忘记了旁边的省博,这个,想想也很发指啊。
在坐船去三潭印月的时候,听说杭州人对楼外楼有“大公无私”之考语,谓食者皆大款、公费,私人不入其间。我们在楼外楼人均消费不足五十,看来是值得炫耀的~

最终这一日走白堤,爬孤山,坐船,漫步,走到南屏晚钟为止,也算窥得西湖一面。虽有美景,始终觉得跟传说中有所不同。不过,西湖本来也不是让人一日就可尽得其美的。无缘亦是缘。
nEO_IMG_DSCF0327_1

西溪湿地。走了长长的一段去免费的福堤。
据说整个建设过程有着“修旧如旧”这样高级正确的理念,所以整个湿地感觉很不错,还能遥想一下以前住在这里的农家的感觉。
湿地。生物多样化。芦苇。水草。野花。一系列好词。

之前在孤山俞楼的时候,就看到俞樾说,杭州名胜,九溪十八涧当居首位。于是立志从龙井村开始,走完九溪十八涧。

可惜刚到龙井村就下雨了。长裙,细雨。看上去很美。可是我没有伞。
在一户农家避雨,和老人家交流未遂,完全听不懂当地语言。幸亏来了一位老婆婆,带我去小卖部买了一把伞。
然后,走在清晨无人的山路中。走过一条一条的小溪。

nEO_IMG_DSCF0445_1

旁边,漫山的茶树。

nEO_IMG_DSCF0453_1

此处想来是诗人最爱。有樊增祥留墨;还有陈三立和陈衡恪的墓,在一片茶林中。
我问路。司机好奇的问:“你为什么要去找陈三立的墓呢?”
我说呃,因为我是历史系的。
真是一个万能的答案啊~

这一天,我从滨江坐车到动物园,再转车去龙井村,从龙井村步行完九溪十八涧,再走到之江学院,进去逛了一圈;再沿着钱塘江散步看江水,遥望六和塔;再从六和塔步行到虎跑,继续进去一逛;最后为了买药再坐公交车去动物园-武林门-动物园再回到滨江。

nEO_IMG_DSCF0529_1
纯属炫耀。
我常常能一个人干一些很猛的事……

最后去的一个地方是灵隐寺。因为在虎跑遇到的厦门gg跟我推荐,但是,人好多啊,好吧,咫尺西天。

nEO_IMG_DSCF0558

梅花糕gg说,旅行,始于攻略,终于游记。

Tags: , , ,

198 Responses to “似曾相似燕归来:想象,及其后果。”

  1. Anonymous Says:

    俺在“咫尺西天”前留影,迹似“咫尺天涯”;也预示了俺在灵隐寺获得一次最震撼的寺庙体验。在“夕照毓秀”前则比较神静。(yuge)

  2. 全都是风 Says:

    怎么个震撼法?说来听听。。
    我都很少在寺庙被震撼到,终归还是木有缘分呀~

  3. Anonymous Says:

    话说灵隐寺的门票卖法,让人摸不着头脑,我在里面呆了一个小时,却在里面听了40多分钟的一场法事,,不能自抑地泪流满面。

  4. 全都是风 Says:

    那个,据说,外面的飞来峰的门票,是给文物局还是旅游局的。
    里面的灵隐寺门票,是给宗教局的。

  5. 迷迭 Says:

    从卖本本的小姑娘到卖花布的小姑娘。

  6. 全都是风 Says:

    从时间上来说,应该是从卖花布的小姑娘到卖本本的小姑娘。。

  7. gysting Says:

    灵隐寺里面最后面的那个佛像还是很震撼的,毕竟头一次看到白色的佛祖。~~~

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