在今天下着小雪的南京
来南京的路上在看蒋梦麟的《新潮》,其中记载道:
“自从太平天国灭亡,劫后南京一直未曾恢复昔日的美丽。历次重建似乎只是庸俗艺匠对于古本的临摹,经过一再临摹之后,原作的光辉渐渐消失,留下的只是俗不可耐的赝品。”
这位教育部长还写道:
“国民革命军进入南京以后,一种新精神随之诞生──一种改革和建设的精神。大家要拿现代科学来复兴往昔的艺术。在这疮痍满目的废墟上,一座柏油马路四通八达的现代城市建立起来了。”
确实,除了从门口偷偷扔进来的小广告,六朝风月,在这个城市是看不到的。倒是前朝的气息随处可见。每天从中山南路到中山东路;二档所在地是国民政府,图书馆的对面是总统府;还有那条无比民国的新模范马路。
我们习惯叫二档,当地人却似乎都叫“二史馆”。一则强调其有“档“,一则仅见其“史”,关注是不同的。传说查档的麻烦,倒也似乎还好;看门人还很热情。现在能看的包括:国民政府档,行政院档,中央大学档,中央研究院档,等等。都是胶片或照片。去之前上网查一下或者打个电话就好。带上介绍信和身份证,每天8点,10点,14点提三次,提档不要钱,嗯。
刚好还遇到cm同学。中午一起觅食。某日觅到一家苏北小饭馆,坐到一个堆满了米面口袋的小房间吃盒饭。这,大概是我这辈子第一次见到这么粮食。
后来还摸去了南京图书馆,很大,办证方便,灯光明亮,人不多。有专门的民国书刊阅览室,大部大部的影印书刊都是开架阅览,闭架书提得也很快。除了没有无线网络之外(其实是有的,但是只能连上图书馆主页而且我无论如何也找不到书籍目录…),其他都比敝校好很多啦。

图书馆旁边有金陵图书馆和美术馆,中午还可以去旁边的家乐福买了大罐酸奶喝。晒着南京的稀薄的太阳和飕飕的小风。
上个周末,找到了著名的金陵刻经处。关闭,仅见一门。
这个周末,本来想去鸡鸣寺,结果先到了古生物博物馆,旁边则是中研院旧址,从博物馆这边可以进去,看到了李四光故居,以及史语所旧址。


缘分呐。
快十年前来南京住在白下路,去年夏天来南京也住在白下路,现在么,离白下路也就那么几步路。还是缘分。
January 13th, 2010 at 4:57 pm
在博客大巴被河蟹的几日,看到风的这篇更新,心中愤愤之情难耐!
有话语权的人们,就算是写些小雪,也是值得羡慕的。
风,你要什么时候回北京拥抱你的温暖呢?
January 29th, 2010 at 5:31 pm
感觉真好啊。
February 3rd, 2010 at 4:53 pm
呼,上PP了。
话说,我开始怀疑我们这里有人偷信了……
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