辞旧迎新的大转圈

本已经计划在年末毫无悬念的溜回四川,突然发现有机会去西安,于是便开始了岁末这场似乎可以预见的大转圈。

  • 北京-洛阳

早早从北京出发,冷。然后发现天空开始飘雪。 一路高速到洛阳。吃了开封四样菜以及看起来和吃起来都像北京炸酱面的开封炸酱面。

  • 洛阳-西安

白马寺,龙门石窟,洛阳博物馆。可是如果只在洛阳呆一个上午,应该去什么地方呢?

函谷关。老子骑牛。公孙龙指马。还有无数次的打仗。

查到新安县有一个函谷关,便杀将过去。结果只看到一个拥堵不堪的小镇,倒真是有万夫莫开之势。

浓雾弥漫,高速不通。慢慢悠悠走国道,看河南人民高高兴兴的赶场。

到三门峡才能上高速。路旁的草木都挂上了霜,仿佛山谷里都开着花。

这时才发现钦定函谷关景区是在灵宝市。整个景区冷冷清清,我们偷偷溜到那没人卖票的古道,走走看看。

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说来,一个大象无形,一个白马非马,你还指望在这里看到些什么呢?

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  • 西安

这个冬天,已经从南京来到了北京,又从东都来到了西都。

由于当年实习在西安比较完整的玩了一周,西安于我,已经没有了多少旅游上的吸引力。 但是说到西安,还是很想去。这,就是一个有意思的城市的魅力。

一去书院街仍然就走不动了,买了剪纸农民画和马勺。

2003年的时候我以为自己就快毕业工作租房子了,于是买了一堆类似的东西回去打算放在租来的房子了,结果至今还没有毕业工作租房子,呜呼哀哉。

去吃塘坝鱼,堵车一小时去“春发生”吃葫芦头泡馍,去吃岐山面和酥饼腊汁肉夹馍。 酸辣爽口的岐山面配上肥瘦适度得流油的肉夹馍,真是让人吃一口高呼一口好吃啊!

  • 定军山

住在著名的沔阳,对面就是一个三国广场。 吃了泡姜仔鸡,过瘾啊。有了回家的感觉。 早起去定军山,又遇上下雪……

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诸葛武侯也成了神,各种各样的人,各种各样的愿望。

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  • 秦岭

每年坐火车的时候就盼望着有一天可以开着吉普翻秦岭,慢慢看山上的美景。 这次过秦岭,才用了两个小时多……

高速路上,还是能看到山上老绿嫩黄,以及山上些微的白雪。

  • 剑阁

剑门关是和蜀道相关得最紧的一个词了吧。 可惜当我们转下高速,从新剑阁转到老剑阁,才知道剑门关已经在地震中被损,整个景区完全处于重建状态。

那么就吃吃剑门豆腐吧。面对着姜维豆腐、草船借箭等等高深莫测的名词,我们最后吃到的“醉酒豆腐“实际上就是醪糟豆花……

最后我们决定去走走著名的翠云廊,传说张飞在作巴西太守的时候修建。 合人抱的古柏树从剑阁延绵到梓潼。不过,如果在梓潼看古柏树,至少可以顺便去大庙山拜拜文曲星;在剑阁,就真的只有这所谓的“张飞柏”了。

于是我们沿着公园围墙溜到农家小院边,找了一条路爬将上去~

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  • 富乐山

传说,当年刘备见刘璋,高兴的说:“富哉!今日之乐乎!”今日的富乐山,仍然保持了如此喜庆欢欣的派头。

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南方的冬天很暖和,海棠都开了。

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看那一潭春水……

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  • 过年

专门从西安买了毛笔回来,鼓动着久未提笔的老爸写副春联。

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过年的意义,于我一向寥寥,除了大吃大喝。去年听着罗大佑独自守岁,今年连手机都没带,没了短信的来来往往,也没联系上那几个每年必见的人。好在还能和舫长在良木缘相谈甚欢,吃下一肚子沙冰。

一年啦,做了一次回顾。逝者如斯夫。除了不断的努力,还有什么是值得为之停留的呢?不相信此岸的圆满与确定,就只有相信KAIZEN了~

过年,就是这样了。

  • 猿王洞

大年初一的惯例,是一大家子人去绵阳近郊远足一番。今年先到李白纪念馆,却发现其尚在地震后的修葺中;再打算去附近某山,却被不识路的导航仪带到了猿王洞。

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猿王洞在山上,地震中完全垮掉,尚未开放。不过,这座山也够我们爬爬,放眼一望了。

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万能的金牛座妈妈找到山下住的当地人,给我们找来一顿农家午饭。自家养的肉类和蔬菜,吃得我们无比赞叹。饭后攀谈,才发现竟然是本家。精灵鼠小弟坚持认为,这一切都是因为他上山的时候踩到了一坨“猿粪”……

饭后去河边玩,练习打水漂和拍照片。

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  • 西山观

西山观是小学时候春游常去的地方。杨柳吐翠,游人如织。

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仔细算来,绵阳和三国的关系还真是密切。西山观虽然得名自仙云观,又有著名的西蜀子云亭,但确有其址的,却是蒋琬墓。

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蒋琬是湘乡人,清中叶后地方官员不乏同乡,因此其墓得以修缮。李象昺那句“小心自可襄诸葛,大度尤能恕二杨”,大概是春游作文必用的句子。

虽然实际上没有立下什么大功,政绩也以守成为主,但读过三国的人总都还是记得蒋琬的:传统的评判体系其实很宽容。

  • 南川

挂着红灯笼的农家小院。

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身为山东人又在川大读书七年的韩师兄困惑的问我,为什么我的乡愁总是和成都联系在一起呢?而不曾有过乡愁如我者,却常常在春天想起在成棉高速上看到的那片片油菜花。

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乡愁……铁路……远方……生活在别处固然是境界不够,一直在路上却总是让我神往的。

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  • 国营平山机械厂

南桐矿区,也是外婆的老家。泥泞,污浊,有些时空倒退的感觉。

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作为三线厂之一,平山厂位于更远的万盛山区,还保留了山洞车间。到80年代初,平山厂跟随着当地的一批三线厂开始了搬迁到市郊,十年余后搬迁工作才基本完成。

对贾樟柯的《二十四城记》很不满意,就在于要表现那种国营大厂的生活,他并没有找到重点。

现在这里已经是农村风光了,基本看不出曾经有一个几千人的大厂存在过。

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回到城市,去嘉陵江边散步。

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  • 重庆

沿着一条小路走到洪崖洞,突然发现我已经身处11楼;然后从渝中区坐索道到了江北区,另一边却是南岸区:作为一个方向感模糊的人,我已经放弃了在重庆确立坐标感的意图。

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索道,棒棒,这些都是重庆的标志。不过在朝天门码头,我们也仅看到这么一个棒棒而已。

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重庆俨然是一个现代化的大城市,不管是解放碑拥挤的人潮,或者一棵树绚烂的夜景,都向我证明着这一点。但只有到了十八梯,我才感觉我真的到了那个我意想中的重庆。

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可是人为什么总是希望去找到一些自己希望找得到的东西呢?真是奇怪。

沿着梯梯坎坎一直走,看到几元钱的小炒馆子,看到带茶水的录像厅,看到缝纫机磨刀石,仿佛行走在时间隧道。

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  • 大足

中午到大足,还是湿漉漉的。湿漉漉的青苔,湿漉漉的落花。

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据说宝顶山石刻是最值得看的。也确实名不虚传。优美的佛像和有趣的故事,义理也好禅意也好,总之都是很美的。

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可是到了一大片佛经二十四孝的故事,就已经似是而非得有点恍惚了;而那“同类题材”中最庞大的地狱造像,更是让人倒足了胃口。

不管怎么样,我对于一切试图威胁、恐吓人的说服方式都忍不住想说一声“呸”。

最有信仰的人,他们并没有索要信仰。

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  • 回到北京

重庆-垫江-忠县-恩施-宜昌-荆门-襄樊-南阳-许昌-石家庄-北京:全程1900多公里。比起走西安那边要近一点;湖北一段全是隧道+高架桥,风景不错。

一个完完整整的大圈圈就这样绕回来了!

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