佛像,大屋以及烟尘

  • 北京-大同 279km

去往大同的路上烟尘弥漫,城内却有一条很好的迎宾路。路上的酒店,看样子就让人不敢问津。总之,迎的不是我们这样的宾罢。于是第二天早上就去了云冈石窟。

北魏。公元386年,拓跋珪称王建国,初,建都云中,盛乐(今内蒙古和林格尔)。398年,迁都于平城(今大同)。493年,拓跋宏迁都洛阳。534年,分裂为东魏与西魏。

云冈石窟则于北魏和平年间(公元460年至471年)由著名和尚昙曜主持,在京城西郊武州塞,开始开凿。主要洞窟,也大多完成于北魏太和十八年(公元494年)孝文帝迁都洛阳之前。

这里有分窟介绍。

不记得哪一窟的飞天,感觉很像肥肥的小天使~

还有长着藕节一样胳膊的小朋友,在描摹佛像的样子。

第12窟是著名的音乐窟。据说此窟中可见的乐器包括琵琶、筚篥、筝、笛、唢呐、排萧、筋、望、细腰鼓、碰铃等。

据统计仅12窟里,各种大小乐器就有17个种类、47件之多。这无疑包揽了北魏所能看见的所有乐器。这些乐器,应该是当时乐器的总和。如此之多的乐器,有的来自番汉;有的来自西域。这一时期由于丝路交通则帧畅,各国往来的频繁,《疏勒乐》等一批乐曲在此时传入中原。因此云冈石窟中伎乐演奏的乐器,应是民族融合的象征。在云冈石窟中出现了大量《西凉乐》的乐器,这是因为北魏太武帝公元439年西征北凉。这次西征将当时流行于凉州一带的《秦汉乐》及乐工带到平城。并在当时的宫廷大礼中演奏。《西凉乐》即从《秦汉乐》的发展而来。云冈石窟中的这些乐器即是当时来自北凉的工匠们把当时流行的乐器该了下来。《西凉乐》吸收了汉乐和西域乐舞的特点,为各部乐中最大的一部,是当时除了《龟兹乐》以外最受人们喜爱的一部乐舞。当时西域各国非常盛行佛教乐舞。据《法显传·于阗国》载:“其国丰乐,人民殷盛,尽皆奉法,以法乐相娱,众僧乃数万人。”北魏当时是以佛教为国教,佛教乐舞必然分行于当时。这种乐舞即在云冈雕刻中体现出来。

第13窟。主尊佛像为交脚弥勒”,其右臂下则可见“托臂力士”。

不记得哪个窟的佛像,外面有土墙的庇护。这丛小草,倒是很有生生之意。

最著名的第20窟大佛。因为这里现在已经是旅游圣地,所以礼佛的人其实也并不那么的多。

出来看到一排排的古董摊子,摊主笑嘻嘻且不客气的麻烦我们不要挡住了外国人看东西~

  • 大同-平遥 385km

平遥分新城和古城。事先在远方网订好了客栈,不过还是要7点以后才能进入老城。

BTW,这家客栈里有只小小的小黄猫~

平遥古城,1997年被列入世界遗产,其评价为:

平遥古城是中国境内保存最为完整的一座古代县城,是中国汉民族城市在明清时期的杰出范例,在中国历史的发展中,为人们展示了一幅非同寻常的文化、社会、经济及宗教发展的完整画卷。

很多展馆还包括了当时的地契等等,很有看头。

不过大部分庙还是经过了重修,虽然仍然很好看~

而这两个人,不是雕像哟~ 街头上看起来十分惊悚…

当年厂里也有卫生所这种东西,斑驳的墙木看起来很怀旧。

连绵的屋顶。

石雕小狮子。

木雕窗子和西红柿~

木雕龙。

这个,是阎锡山省长当年的白话告示~

最后去了城墙,来往的人不多。

平遥牛肉据说很有名,不过我觉得跟一般真空包装的牛肉没有什么区别。其他的名吃基本都是面食…
吃了一碗山西打卤面,倒真是不错~
晚上上老街找酒喝。背包客聚在一起商量明天的路程,猎艳客心怀鬼胎的和妹妹拼酒。
喝了一杯传说中的哥顿金,青涩的味道。

第二天去了王家大院。远看几乎就是一座皇宫啊~他不怕被砍头么?
据说

现在向游人开放的红门堡、高家崖堡及王氏宗祠三组建筑群,尚不足王家大院总占地面积的四分之一。据王家史料和现存的实物考证,明万历年间至清嘉庆十六年,静升王氏家族的住宅,随其族业的不断兴盛,在村中,由西向东,由低到高,不断延伸,渐修渐众,营造了总占地面积达25万平方米之巨的建筑群体,远比占地 15万平方米的北京皇家故宫庞大。

看看人家这石头墩子~

看过这石雕的鲤鱼跳龙门之后,真的又去了龙门~ 此乃后话。

院门外是一片绿色。

门楹精致的木雕。

窗外是连绵的大屋。

远景。

近景。

这几颗红枣,是给土地爷的祭品么?

  • 平遥-西安 543km

1927年报道:

记者近因事绕道晋南,经过平陆、夏县、安邑、解县、虞乡、永济等六县,所见该省当局之一切设施,条例井然。在此举国忧扰之际,亦属难能可贵。他姑无论,即地方治安良好,与行旅绝对安全两端,已经令高谈主义之新军阀对之生愧,其他更无论矣。久经离乱之吾人视之,真不啻世外桃源。

桃源么?总之我们就这样向着西安和肉夹馍奔去了~

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